Rhonda's Comment: Oh my goodness, is that Onslow on board? I wonder where Mrs Bucket is? Still asleep I see!!!!!
Yep, there is a distinct cooler feel in the air in the early mornings and late evenings. The Plane and Elm trees which seem to dominate the canal paths are turning red in colour and starting to have leaf fall along with some of the other deciduous tree varieties. Sadly the evenings are getting dark earlier so no more sitting up on the top deck until 10.00 pm. Gosh what a whinger I sound to be, but we have been spoiled I guess and have such wonderful memories of this fast fading summer but still do look forward to what lies ahead. Today I have put on a tracksuit and socks for the first time since leaving England last October but the day has been perfect with no clouds or wind so by midday it was back to shorts and a singlet again. So life isn’t all that bad.
We left Decize and pottered along the Canal de Lateral stopping over at more little ports or mooring places finding so many amazing places to call in to or to see in passing. One of these was the Abbaye de Sept-Fons which appeared through the forest scenery alongside the Loire River and is so notable due to its huge sprawling size and history. The amount of spires first takes your eye, typical in its livery of lead coloured tiles and general great condition.
The Abbey was founded back in 1132 by the Bourbon family and coveted of course by the church. By the 15th century it had fallen into a state of disrepair due in part to the scandalous behaviour of the monks at the time until they were finally banished. During the Revolution, the monks returned, however this time, they distinguished themselves by their faithfulness to the Pope and to the Church with many of them becoming martyrs. The Abbey still operates today, however, it is not open to the public so viewing is from afar or via a video centre at the entrance but is really impressive to view even from the distance. Sadly we could not get any pictures due to moving along the canal and trying to see it all through the forest but one day we may well return.
One of our over night stopovers was at Pierrefitte sur Loire as it offered water and safe mooring. We were the only barge there apart from some folks from North Carolina who pulled in behind us after tailing us all day through the canals and locks. Gene and Margaret were experiencing their first year on the canal in their 12 m ex-rental canal boat which suits their needs just fine. While moored up they and then Rhonda took a walk into the little village which offered some limited shops so Harry and I wandered over the stop bank to find this amazing man made lake and park with all the facilities.
I guess the park area would be 10 acres of clear and lightly wooded areas for shade with the lake being approx 800m long by 150m wide and the whole area is set up as a full recreational centre. Fishing is allowed from some areas with others reserved for kayaking or using the pedallo bikes which were parked on the banks, other areas were reserved for volley ball, beach soccer, football and a full obstacle course. Changing sheds, toilets and even a lifeguard patrolled a beach of lovely sand was all set up for users. Sadly, there was only a couple of kids playing at the beach despite it being really hot, and two or three fishermen making use of the facilities. I noticed that at the clubhouse, there were photos of the last fishing competition winners where pictures showed fish of up to 15 kilos being held on display. These were mainly of carp, trout or catfish varieties but there were plenty of participants vying for the trophies which looked to be pretty good.
Adjoining the park is a very nice camping ground and caravan park with all the facilities one needs and again they have used hedges to give each parking area its own privacy which adds to the meaning of getting away from it all. Just amazing really.
In my earlier blogs we referred to our sadness at finding so much rubbish in the canals in the north, so it would be remiss of me to not now say that we noticed a very different state applying as we have moved south. While some people may still get up from where they are picnicking and often leave their papers, bottles and scraps behind (they believe that to put them in the bin does someone out of their paid job), it is nowhere as bad and in fact the recycling facilities have to be seen to be believed.
Almost every where you go there are these large bottle receptacles for recycling and folk will drive to them to dump their empties as putting glass or cans or plastic bottles out with your general rubbish is frowned at. The reason I raise this now is that at our mooring there is a set of these receptacles which are approx 1000 litre capacity and even at the park I have written about had a set and there are sets of two standard size rubbish bins about every 25 meters apart right around the lake and then others are dotted through the park.
There were probably 50 park tables or as we call them BBQ tables set up ready for folk to use and I don’t know what is wrong with the kids over here but not one was burned or spray painted or vandalised. Gee they have a lot to learn. This same respect seems to apply to gardens, art works and street ornaments which show no sign of any damage. Wonderful.
In my earlier blogs we referred to our sadness at finding so much rubbish in the canals in the north, so it would be remiss of me to not now say that we noticed a very different state applying as we have moved south. While some people may still get up from where they are picnicking and often leave their papers, bottles and scraps behind (they believe that to put them in the bin does someone out of their paid job), it is nowhere as bad and in fact the recycling facilities have to be seen to be believed.
Almost every where you go there are these large bottle receptacles for recycling and folk will drive to them to dump their empties as putting glass or cans or plastic bottles out with your general rubbish is frowned at. The reason I raise this now is that at our mooring there is a set of these receptacles which are approx 1000 litre capacity and even at the park I have written about had a set and there are sets of two standard size rubbish bins about every 25 meters apart right around the lake and then others are dotted through the park.
There were probably 50 park tables or as we call them BBQ tables set up ready for folk to use and I don’t know what is wrong with the kids over here but not one was burned or spray painted or vandalised. Gee they have a lot to learn. This same respect seems to apply to gardens, art works and street ornaments which show no sign of any damage. Wonderful.
I was amazed at how a small village could afford this type of facility with half of the shops being closed due to the reces
sion. I found out that it was a district activity just completed prior to this downturn so at least it is there for the locals and visitors to enjoy. I hope they have enough funding to keep it in the lovely order it is currently in. Just along the Pier from where we berthed is a Hotel/Bar/Casino/Restaurant complex which looks lovely with great potential but is all closed up. A passing native advised us that it was a great business but the owner spent more in the Casino than what he was taking so was evicted some 6 months ago (just remember this Claude) and while it is all up for sale including a home on the site, no-one has yet put his hand up to take it over. Gee, 10 years ago I think I would have been tempted as the opportunity is right there.
sion. I found out that it was a district activity just completed prior to this downturn so at least it is there for the locals and visitors to enjoy. I hope they have enough funding to keep it in the lovely order it is currently in. Just along the Pier from where we berthed is a Hotel/Bar/Casino/Restaurant complex which looks lovely with great potential but is all closed up. A passing native advised us that it was a great business but the owner spent more in the Casino than what he was taking so was evicted some 6 months ago (just remember this Claude) and while it is all up for sale including a home on the site, no-one has yet put his hand up to take it over. Gee, 10 years ago I think I would have been tempted as the opportunity is right there. 
We crossed a large Pont (canal on a bridge crossing a river or similar) which gave us our last views of the mighty River Loire which we have roughly followed on our adventure for so many weeks. We will miss the volume and size of this great waterway as it makes its way out to the coast while we go onto the Canal du Centre after leaving Digoin.
Well this came about sooner than we had thought as after having a brief look about the town of Digoin and spending the night in the so called port, we felt it was not our kind of place so we left after lunch and pushed our way through three locks and about 14 kms to the town of Paray-le-Monial. We felt good about the port so we moored up and off loaded the scooter ready to take off to see the sights, however, we coped a real summer storm of lightning and thunder with savage rain and no TV so it was a quiet night on board listening to French radio. Gee, what a thrill! The next morning the weather had cleared so off we went to look around the town and to do the supermarket shopping as there are 4 very large places to choose from.
Well this came about sooner than we had thought as after having a brief look about the town of Digoin and spending the night in the so called port, we felt it was not our kind of place so we left after lunch and pushed our way through three locks and about 14 kms to the town of Paray-le-Monial. We felt good about the port so we moored up and off loaded the scooter ready to take off to see the sights, however, we coped a real summer storm of lightning and thunder with savage rain and no TV so it was a quiet night on board listening to French radio. Gee, what a thrill! The next morning the weather had cleared so off we went to look around the town and to do the supermarket shopping as there are 4 very large places to choose from.
We noticed that Diesel or Gazol as it is called here was being sold for .9
9 euros a litre which is about .26 euros cheaper than most outlets charge so off we went on the trusty scooter to fill our 20 litre container to top up the heating tank at least. Well it all went well until I went to siphon the container into the tank on board boat when it slipped off and fell into the canal so while most of the diesel stayed in the container about 10 litres went into the water and about the same in dirty water entered the container so all was lost. The language used was not pretty and that was from Rhonda alone so it was a case of getting back to the outlet and replacing the fuel so it was pretty expensive after all. The next lot was carefully siphoned in I can assure you.
The shopping centre looked pretty good so we visited that area a couple of times noting again how well the French blend the old with the new. One must realise that when viewing our pictures of old homes and apartments buildings that they are not just preserved etc but that they are current homes and may be bought just as you or I would buy a family home back in New Zealand but not think anything about its age or history.
9 euros a litre which is about .26 euros cheaper than most outlets charge so off we went on the trusty scooter to fill our 20 litre container to top up the heating tank at least. Well it all went well until I went to siphon the container into the tank on board boat when it slipped off and fell into the canal so while most of the diesel stayed in the container about 10 litres went into the water and about the same in dirty water entered the container so all was lost. The language used was not pretty and that was from Rhonda alone so it was a case of getting back to the outlet and replacing the fuel so it was pretty expensive after all. The next lot was carefully siphoned in I can assure you.We next went to look at the town centre where there is a great balance of old and new architecture and as a whole is both pretty and appealing. In the centre of it all is a Basilica of the Sacred Heart. This is the first Basilica I have ever seen so we visited it to find a full lunch time service underway with wonderful hymn singing etc carried out by only 7 priests. Naturally, the Mass was given in Latin with every thing else in French. While I don’t go much for a lot of these old churches really this was a sight to be seen. Religion is so strong in France and in this town alone there would be at least 7 or 8 churches. Goodness only knows where all the money comes from to keep them up-to-date as most are several centuries old.
In the park next to our pier which Harry adopted to be his own play area, we learned that in August some 5,000 devotees to the church camp over in tents and camper vans etc to celebrate the churches festive period of celebrating the season of plenty.
In the park next to our pier which Harry adopted to be his own play area, we learned that in August some 5,000 devotees to the church camp over in tents and camper vans etc to celebrate the churches festive period of celebrating the season of plenty.
The shopping centre looked pretty good so we visited that area a couple of times noting again how well the French blend the old with the new. One must realise that when viewing our pictures of old homes and apartments buildings that they are not just preserved etc but that they are current homes and may be bought just as you or I would buy a family home back in New Zealand but not think anything about its age or history.
While travelling we have often commented to each other about the large number of pools (piscines) which are set up in people’s backyards. No fences but as so many are the above ground pools like the Para pools we had, there are so many inflatable pools like we tried to sell in Australia and New Zealand. Ranging from the splasher pools to large swimming pools these easily inflated and then demounted pools seem to be very popular as they are collapsed and stored away over winter. I guess that of every pool seen at least 95 % would have been this type.
We moved on after a co
uple of days through the Charolois Country which is very similar to the Kiwi landscape (great looking cattle which are so beef productive) arriving in Montceau-les-Mines, a very large town which grew during the 18th century due to the drive to get coal mined and for steel and power plants to be built in the area. The canal was a major transport route for the bulk products and some of the old photos of the town are amazing showing 50 to 100 barges lined up ready to ship the products. After the rush for these products slowed, the town died in part and has had to reinvent itself as being the centre of the rural district and Burgundy grape growing region. In the town there are a few unusual bridges which cross the canal. One is a lift-up bridge hinged at one end and then the next one lifted using a counterweight system then you encounter a pedestrian walkway bridge which looks to be blocking your passage but then it suddenly lifts from both ends to a height where you have clear passage under and on into the port to moor up.
We moved on after a co
uple of days through the Charolois Country which is very similar to the Kiwi landscape (great looking cattle which are so beef productive) arriving in Montceau-les-Mines, a very large town which grew during the 18th century due to the drive to get coal mined and for steel and power plants to be built in the area. The canal was a major transport route for the bulk products and some of the old photos of the town are amazing showing 50 to 100 barges lined up ready to ship the products. After the rush for these products slowed, the town died in part and has had to reinvent itself as being the centre of the rural district and Burgundy grape growing region. In the town there are a few unusual bridges which cross the canal. One is a lift-up bridge hinged at one end and then the next one lifted using a counterweight system then you encounter a pedestrian walkway bridge which looks to be blocking your passage but then it suddenly lifts from both ends to a height where you have clear passage under and on into the port to moor up.
A day and a night was enough here for us but during our stay we met up with the new owners of Afleur D’O which was one of the fir
st barges we viewed to buy when we came over here in early 2008 to see what the market held for us. She was stationed on the River Lott at Villeneuve-St-Sylvester where she was still under some charter work which is not too bad for a vessel built in 1898 of iron with all the plates being held in place by the old method of using red hot rivets but of course has had a number of upgrades over the past 100 plus years. The new owners from Melbourne, Andrew and Laurel Hewitt have set off on a similar adventure path to us and are doing a great job in handling the Old Girl so well, considering they too are newbies to canal boating.
st barges we viewed to buy when we came over here in early 2008 to see what the market held for us. She was stationed on the River Lott at Villeneuve-St-Sylvester where she was still under some charter work which is not too bad for a vessel built in 1898 of iron with all the plates being held in place by the old method of using red hot rivets but of course has had a number of upgrades over the past 100 plus years. The new owners from Melbourne, Andrew and Laurel Hewitt have set off on a similar adventure path to us and are doing a great job in handling the Old Girl so well, considering they too are newbies to canal boating.After leaving Montceau-les-Mines, we travelled along the Canal du Centre which unlike previous travelled canals is a “long and winding road” - Sounds like the title for a song, eh. The canal seems to follow an old river bed so we kept climbing and experienci
ng so many locks which told us we were crossing a high hill or mountain range. We reached the peak in Montchanin and suddenly we were into down locks by the dozen in fact in two days we passed through 19, all in 16 kms so you can imagine how we were always on the go either hooking on or casting off with everything in between and as some of them being the old 5m ones with floating bollards I can assure you at the end of each day, sleep and rest was the priority so we stayed over at St Leger sur Dheune (the words Sur Dheune means there is the river Dheune running along side the canal so most of the villages add these words to there own town’s name. Here at St Leger we caught up with our shopping, laundry and cleaning duties and then rested up before facing another few locks before we get to flatter country again.
ng so many locks which told us we were crossing a high hill or mountain range. We reached the peak in Montchanin and suddenly we were into down locks by the dozen in fact in two days we passed through 19, all in 16 kms so you can imagine how we were always on the go either hooking on or casting off with everything in between and as some of them being the old 5m ones with floating bollards I can assure you at the end of each day, sleep and rest was the priority so we stayed over at St Leger sur Dheune (the words Sur Dheune means there is the river Dheune running along side the canal so most of the villages add these words to there own town’s name. Here at St Leger we caught up with our shopping, laundry and cleaning duties and then rested up before facing another few locks before we get to flatter country again.Rhonda's Comment: Cycling is big here in France!!!!
We hope to get to Fragnes (with another 15 locks to go through before reaching Fragnes) which is at the end of the Canal du Centre and will thus mean that we will need to turn north again on the Saone river which will give us our first real experience of navigating a true river, so fingers crossed. This will lead us on towards Saint-Jean de Losne where we are to winter over and as the temperature is dropping each day, it will be about time for us to put away our summer wardrobe and dig out the winter woollies while most of you will be smiling and saying thank goodness, as you go into your spring and summer.
Locks - 278
Kilometers - 1155
Kilometers - 1155
Rhonda's Comment: Looks like we have a future new crew member in the making.
what a fantastic time you have had so far-the lifestyle obviously suits you both and H.is presumably fluent in French and can sort out any canines around.xxLindsay
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