GREAT VISITORS - WONDERFUL TIMES

June 2011 Blog

Following our car visits to so many towns and villages to show our guests Daphne and Claude from New Zealand, some real French country-side, it was a nice change to get back onto the boat at Moissac to catch up with many of our ‘old’ boating pals. Some were leaving for their own cruising season so it was good to catch up with them before they left.

We shopped, of course and set off for our own cruise on 2nd June down the canal towards Bordeaux but with plans to branch away onto the Baise River and/or The Lot River depending on water conditions and levels. Due to the almost drought conditions experienced in this part of the world over the past few months there were warnings that depths were insufficient to allow passage to some areas, however, within a day or two of leaving Moissac we experienced a lot of heavy rain which raised the levels so it was all go for boaters to get to these restricted areas.

We pottered along the canal, over-nighting at Malause, Valence-d’Agen and a couple of nights at one of our favourite stop-over points of Boe (poor dock facilities but a great park for walking and for Harry) which is just on the outskirts of Agen and allows easy access by car to the city. We eventually moved on to Agen where the port is only about ½ k from the city so easy walking was the go for folk wishing to see the city lights, cathedral and churches, etc.

At this time we caught up to the new owners of “Amarok”, Charlie and Marcia who had been shadowing us along from Moissac plus we met up with Tony and Elaine off “Dreamflower” whom we had met up with in Toulouse last year so a good chat was held. Sadly time restricted us doing more but it is always good to catch up with others from the “long village”.

From Agen we moved on to Serignac-sur-Garonne where again we met up with about 6 other cruising families whom we knew or did meet there that night. Thanks to Charlie and Marcia’s organising, we all ended up on the bank pathway with the grills, hot plates and even electric fry pans making up the most magnificent evening pot luck dinner complete with dancing (well by some anyhow) and a recital from a French lady who could sing a heck of a lot better than any of us. With lots of applause from picnicking French families near by but on the other side of the canal our ladies decided to put on a show of rock ‘n roll, led particularly by Pam from “Modestine”. Her husband Brent showed suitable restraint by applauding politely from his chair so nobody lost face etc.

A great night was had by all and the odd “overhang” was reported the following morning by the honest people and just tolerated by the ones who didn’t want to admit to their overindulgence but we all felt sympathy for those affected. Yeah right.

So Claude and a couple of others suffered in silence for a few hours as we moved along the canal to Buzet where we found again that berthing was only available by being tied up to previously berthed craft such was the volume of traffic. As it is the turn off point where one has to divert to the Lot or Baise, it is a very popular stopover. As Rhonda had driven the car to there, she obtained our berth position along-side “Hilda May” which had also been in Toulouse dry dock while we were there in April. The owners were away in the UK again so with them already being tied up to a barge against the bank we were the 3rd boat out and while it was ok, it was not ideal so we only stayed 2 nights.

By the time we got “Somewhere” tied up alongside “Hilda May” Rhonda was in full voice telling us about the “INFLUX” of snakes. Fearing that there could be thousands infesting the banks etc we learned that in fact three had been seen swimming across the canal and according to Terry who knows it all, were referred to as being green grass snakes and supposedly harmless but I am not so sure. If they are grass snakes why do they swim so much…….

We also found again that the people who run the restaurant on the quay really need to go to a hospitality school to learn to smile and to make clients feel welcome and to learn how to provide a service. The food was fine but the stress of having a busy restaurant was obviously not their thing, so they should give it away and let somebody who values customers take over. This sadly was not the first time we have experienced tardy service from them as we had refused to stay there last year due to the abruptness experienced when our guests tried to book in for evening meals.

Never mind, we caught up with Terry, Sandra and Alice off “Felix” who had been exploring this end of the canals for a few weeks and were one of the boats who had experienced lack of water under their keel and had run aground a couple of times but in typical Terry and Sandra fashion they just shrugged and smiled and went on with life. We shared a few drinks up on deck with them while Terry tuned and played a bit on my guitar so shook the cobwebs off it anyhow. With the evening spent reminiscing about old pop groups, artists and in particular, guitarists a great chat and laugh was enjoyed by all.

The next day we set off with Rhonda again driving the car while Daphne and Claude acted as forward hands and we headed towards Vianne a village and mooring situation where power and water are offered free of charge on the Baise. As you come off the Canal de Garonne one needs to drop down two locks onto the Baise and make a very tight right-hand turn. We headed up stream in water very yellow/brown due to the recent rains it was almost off-putting but as there was plenty of volume and water flow it was nice boating and we arrived at Vianne about 1.30 pm to be advised by the self appointed spokesman for the port Jeff off “Matilda Blue” that we should only stay for 3 days or we could be ordered off by the local Mairie, however, we took 20 Euros up to the Mairie’s office and said we wished to stay for 5 days as it was very pleasant indeed and an ideal spot to await changeover of our guests.

The night before Daphne and Claude’s departure we had our farewell dinner up in the square at a beautiful restaurant, Les Marrioners. Food and service was as good as we have experienced anywhere in France with a wonderful variety of food to whet anybody’s appetite.

The following morning we drove Daphne and Claude to Agen for their return home to New Zealand by catching a train from Agen to Bordeaux and then flying on to London.

Next day was ”cleaning up” day and painting again of the sundeck to ensure it was well coated before we put up the sun shields etc as the temperatures are now climbing so shade is of paramount importance. In the evening we drove to Buzet to join in the “Fish ‘n Chip” Evening and Quiz Night again at the restaurant. The stress was not showing on the faces of the owners of the restaurant this time as it was not full and only one dish to prepare. We joined Alex and Louise off “Riccall” who had come in the day before and Bob and Bobbie off “La Chouette” and Terry and Sandra off “Felix”. Terry prepared the questions and guess what we came second. What a fun night.

After a couple of days break following Daphne and Claude’s departure we had Derek and Valerie also from New Zealand come to stay with us for a week so it was all go again and we really enjoyed showing them some of our wonderful way of life and country.

We had a call from Millen and Lyn who we met back in Moissac with Eric and Polly, the old owners of "Amarok". Millen and Lyn would be travelling through our area in their motorhome and so we met up with them for a wonderful couple of hours and few drinks up in the square. It was wonderful to see them again.


Rhonda's Comment: Only on board for one night and already Ken gave Derek the mop!!!!

We cruised the boat up to the old world city of Nerac through the Baise River past Lavardac and through what seemed to be ever decreasing width locks. Derek enjoyed the role of forward hand and did well mastering ropes in true nautical fashion.

The old city is so picturesque and interesting with lots of it dating back to the 13th century.
From within the city one can catch a local train touristique service to Mezin some 1.5 hours ride away. Quaint and old with some of the rolling stock originally being in service from the early 1800’s the open cab type carriages allows a view of the surrounding country and some of the old castles, maisons and chalets along the way. It was also an area where cork was originally grown and harvested for the wine industry along with maize and wheat milling as the climate is very dry with lots of the area being of a sand based soil.

The town of Mezin does not appear to offer much to see or visit so the return trip was made after a 15 minute stopover, unfortunately we were forced to listen to a very verbal Frenchman giving endless commentary on the country etc and while Rhonda and I sat clenching our teeth we were surprised how well Val and Derek seemed to be taking it until we got back to Nerac to see them pull paper napkin plugs from their ears.

Our trip back down the Baise to Vianne was without incident apart from the scraping through some of the overgrown trees etc, and the experience of fitting into the narrower than usual locks. With only approx 75mm to 100mm of clearance on each side of the craft it was a case of slow and careful.

With the departure of Val and Derek who had a great time while with us and were great company too, we drove them back to Agen railway station and then it was a case of back to the boat, and to settle down to the quiet life again until the next group of friends arrive in July.

Suddenly we got a call from Gene and Liz who own and run Te Whau Lodge on Waiheke Island in Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf (a superb first class accommodation and dining lodge) telling us that they were in Nerac and would like to call by to see us which they did and we had a lovely lunch and chat throughout the afternoon before they motored off again to finish their French stay in Nerac.

With a quiet period promised it was time to do some regular maintenance like generator oil and filter changes followed by the same for the engine. As usual nothing mechanical comes easy to me, however, after sploshing diesel and oil all around my engine room the task got finished and the generator and engine started up to test. Guess what????? It all worked ok, now isn’t that a surprise.

During the week we had Alan and Gill call in to see us and deliver their "care parcel" from UK and our mail from Moissac. Terry and Sandra ("Felix") were still here in Villeton so we decided we would put a barbeque on and have one of those fantastic long lunches. This is why we are here in France - great times, great people and wonderful memories being created - just love it.

It will soon be time to move off from our favourite little port of Villeton on our way to get to the closest moorings we can before we have to give away to the power of the river and leave “Somewhere” while we drive the car to Bordeaux to explore this new territory and that is when we will issue our next blog.

Hope you enjoy this issue and if you have any questions please feel free to ask.

All the very best, kindest regards
Rhonda Ken and Harry

Number of Locks in Total: 570
Kilometres travelled in Total: 2690

LAND LUBBERS

Hello to all the lucky northern hemisphere readers who are enjoying this most beautiful spring weather and warm temperatures and to those from the south, well don’t complain, you did have one of the best and longest summers ever, so now you are paying the bill so to speak.

We arrived back in Moissac after out dry dock trip to Toulouse and were welcomed back like old friends from home. We had asked for a booking down on the Tarn River which entails dropping down two locks from the canal and this was granted so it was exciting to be “down on the Tarn” joining "Riccall" and "Amarok", so we readily settled into the social scene there and then caught up with “old” friends from the canal and around town and even from our sister port of Castelsarrasin so the time has just flown.

We had been advised that my motor scooter had been found by some kids but it had been unfortunately dumped in the river with lots of damage so we loaded its carcase into the boot of the old Citroen and took it to the local motor bike shop only to be told that it was "kaput" as it had apparently been running when dumped so had hydrauliced and the engine was seized etc. So much for the motor scooter but some pleasing news awaited us that another boater was interested in the Citroen as his car had given up the ghost so after explaining the problems we had had and getting another Control Technique which required us to get a few little jobs done, we struck a deal so all parties are happy.

















Rhonda's Comments: Celebrations with Alex and Louise "Riccall" and Eric and Polly "Amarok" - E & P sold their boat.

We have also had news that another boater has a 50 cc motor scooter of Chinese build for sale at a fair price so we will probably settle for this when he brings it back from the UK for us to look at. It has only done 75 miles and as it can't be registered in the UK and only in France, he is anxious to quit it as he has also bought a bigger bike for his own use.


Rhonda's Comment: Gill and Alan asked us over to their house for 6's.

Rhonda's Comments: We had a magnificent day out on the Tarn with Gill, Alan, Tom and Eric. The weather couldn't have been better.

After a week back in Moissac catching up on all those little jobs, including social activities and gorging on the most beautiful cherries from this area, we drove up to Toulouse to collect Daphne and Claude from New Zealand who have visited us each year and have come again for about a month. After a couple of days of looking around the local region and letting them catch up on themselves after a 30 hour flight etc, we drove to Sarlat some 2.5 hours north of Moissac where Rhonda had negotiated the renting of a house for a week at very good rates. It was a delightful house with sleeping for 8 people and offerred every facility one can imagine including an in-ground swimming pool, bbq with lots of outdoor furniture etc just 400 meters from the town centre.

The drive down to here was very picturesque with some of the best orchards (now is cherry season) of all varieties I have ever seen. Eat your heart out Hawkes Bay. If the land wasn’t covered in fruit trees it was cropped in wheat, oats, rye and so on. Talk about the food basket of France, well here it is. After leaving the rolling country, the land steepens as one enters the escarpments at the edges of the plains to find rich forests with towns dotted along the ridges and cliffs or below on the river banks so the scenery is amazing.

This town of Sarlat is rated as the second most popular tourist spot in the whole of France and I don’t wonder why. Built originally in the 13th century it offers a mixture of old and new with all sorts of tourist attractions, restaurants, shops of all types. For those people who have visited Carcassonne and enjoyed it you will be blown away with Sarlat. It is head and shoulders above Carcassonne as a tourist spot for sure with so many great attractions within a 20 km drive from here.

Rhonda's Comment: Note the price of the truffles - 250E per kg and this was the cheap lot!!

The first day we travelled to Domme which is a town built on top of a mount which gave natural protection from the marauding hordes who swept through this part of the country in the name of religion over the centuries and is still maintained in a lot of its original state affording a magnificent vista over the plains below. Goodness knows how attacking troops could ever climb the mount let alone launch any sort of attack. In the town one can ride a tractor train around the ramparts and view the scenery in comfort and marvel at the construction including the slits in the stonework which are only big enough for archers to fire their arrows at any approaching soldiers etc. From such holdings boiling fat or tallow could be poured on those poor devils below. From there we drove down to the river of La Dordogne which flows through the town of La Roque Gageac which is built on and into the cliffs. It is amazing to see homes and businesses tucked onto the sides of the cliffs with many old structures actually being cut into the rock for protection from weather and attack. On the river 4 ancient galleon style scows offer trips up and down the La Dordogne but as we were travelling by car we gave this a miss but did see some wonderful sights along the way.

As we drove on Beynac which offered little in comparison from what we had seen we turned around and came back to Sarlat for a swim in the beautiful pool which is a part of the property we have rented as a base and then Rhonda and I did a BBQ which turned out well so fully fed we then were able to watch the video Valkyrie about the attempt to assassinate Hitler. Unfortunately Tom Cruise wasn’t up to his usual standard of just eliminating all enemies before him and paid for his treason with his life. Well so the story goes anyhow.














As the next day was forecast as being a little cooler we set off to the world famous gardens of Manoir d'Eyrignac. This garden is set in many acres of rolling farm country and has been developed by the same family for many years and offers amazing sights of Topiary. With 150,000 box trees having been shaped over the years, the views of the various gardens and lawns are truly breathtaking and we hope that the photos contained herein give some idea of the magnificence of this property. With 800,000 visitors each year one gets some idea of how popular it is despite it being 20 odd kilometres away from Sarlat and is out in the true country with only B class roads to take one there. Dogs are allowed to wander through as long as they are on a leash so Harry gave of his best to assist in dampening down the very dry conditions that are playing havoc in this part of France at present. Again as the heat of the day took over we were glad to get back to our rental house for a swim and a nap and to talk about the most amazing gardens we had ever seen.

Rhonda's Comment: At afternoon tea time, the choice was amazing but I think we covered it all in the "taste test".


With Wednesday on us it was decided that before the heat got too much we would wander down into the old centre of Sarlat to witness close up the old architecture and shops and tourist spots.
The one which stands out above all others in my mind is the Manoir De Gisson which is privately owned and operated right in the centre of the town and has, and is continuingly being lovingly restored as a museum with a difference. Not only can you get close and personal with the exhibits you can handle them and sit in chairs and lounges which are hundreds of years old. Even old books and diaries are ready for close inspection and can be handled but the rooms housing the instruments of torture have to be seen to begin to imagine how cruel man can be to his fellow beings. I thought I had seen the worst of this sort of thing in the Tower of London but they were beginners compared to some of this stuff. They called it justice but who dealt it out must have been heartless in every sense of the word. Once outside one takes a big breath and says thanks that we are no longer faced with such barbarity or are we? The temperatures are climbing into the 30's now so walking is one thing which one wishes to avoid past noon so the pool has been a welcome refuge from this summer weather.


With so much to see in this area, Rhonda has had to plan each days outings to hopefully take in the best sights and attractions so the next day we set off early in the day to travel to Gouffre De Padirac where underground is the BIG word for this area. A fissure or crack in the earths crust running for 19 kms allows access to parts of it by descending on 3 lifts some 103 meters below the surface. Down at the bottom one is loaded into tin punts holding 15 persons each and floated along through these enormous grottos into groves as high as 90 meters which have to be seen to be appreciated. As it dates back to prehistoric times one can look at remains of mankind and animals plus all their fighting, cooking and survival tools. Thank goodness we did this at this time of the year as we counted around 30 of these punts ready for the madding hordes which will come pouring through in July and August. Truly a must see attraction in every respect. We left feeling fully thankful for the opportunity. A quiet drive via which also appealed as a great sight to see and to visit got us home in time for a nap and then a quiet evening meal in the centre of this beautiful old city.
As Thursday dawned a little sulky looking we decided to drive to Les Jardins Suspendus de Marqueyssac. This is also a family garden commenced in 1989 turning the chateau which as usual is mounted on top of a small mountain peak overlooking the valley and river and turning the grounds into a world class topiary garden. Photos are included in our blog. Splendid and breathtaking are some of the adjectives one could use to describe these grounds. Peacocks strut about freely giving off their call for all to hear and for the aged and infirm a small bus like a large golf cart travels along a central path of approx 1800 meters while walkways are found along each side hidden within the gardens. Offering great views over the landscape below many hours could be spent in this garden alone.

Rhonda's Comment: Daphne and Claude prepare another afternoon tea stop.

The easy drive back to base also allowed us to marvel at the great countryside, farming and cropping areas which are so prevalent. With orchards of hundreds of walnut trees in addition to grapes, cherries, and apricots etc, the crops of maize and corn are everywhere and in between any fallow paddocks are growing hay for cutting and bailing for winter stock feed.


Friday was set down for a visit to Europe’s biggest fresh water aquarium which while only being relatively new is certainly so well set up. With over 30 pools containing 3.000.000.000 litres of water and 6,000 fish all set in realistic copies of their natural environment, viewing is easy and informative. From carp to catfish to sturgeons to trout to terrapins and turtles plus many other types the display tanks and rooms seem to go on forever then when you think you have seen it all you can enter the Iguana park where the largest array of Iguanas and lizards I have ever seen are available to view in their glass display cabinets followed by several settings of reptiles such as snakes from around the world including two huge Anacondas which made my blood run cold. A wonderful day out for any family and with beautiful river bank settings nearby for picnics or "pique niques" as the French write it, life seems to be pretty idyllic really.

Sadly this was our last day in Sarlat so we then set off and travelled towards a place which had long been in my "must see" categories and that is the Millau Viaduc which is the highest bridge in the world with its highest pylon reaching 343 meters above the valley. Even its length of 2640 meters is remarkable and it is only when one watches the on-site videos of the construction can one fully appreciate what a wonderful structure this is. When you consider that its complete construction over this huge valley took only 3 years to the day and offers to the French motorist the most cost effective way to drive from the Mediterranean to Paris, it is truly a magnificent feat. We can only hope that the photos we took give you a sense of the enormity, beauty and effectiveness of this amazing structure and we can assure you that a trip to see it first hand will invoke the gasps we gave on seeing it . We even went back in the evening and again the following morning when we crossed over it so as to take in as much of the views as possible.

It was a drive of some 4 hours back to Moissac which we completed with a couple of stop overs, one being at Roquefort where the world famous sheep’s milk cheese is produced. We took in the guided tour but sadly as it was only given in French we took early leave and our cheese and travelled back "home" arriving in time to unpack, relax and to relish all the wonderful places we had visited. Truly a most amazing adventure and one which we will surely remember for many years to come.

HOORAY, THE NEW SEASON STARTS

As the season turned from the odd winter chill towards spring and all the fruit trees came into blossom along with the daffodils, crocuses and early wisterias, more folk seemed to be out and about smiling as the sun warmed the bodies so we made plans to head off from Moissac. After finishing staining the wheelhouse and cleaning up as spring demands, we were set to go but as you know the best made plans of mice and men can easily get waylaid which is what happens.

The saga re motor vehicles continued with the fellow who had paid 50% deposit of the purchase price for the car turned up on settlement day asking for his deposit back stating that a mate of his had offered him a vehicle free of charge. This of course mean't that we had to re-advertise the car as soon as the paper would accept the advert for reissue but valuable time was lost.

We then had three separate groups of locals who appeared to be of North African descent all who tried to bargain down the price and eventually a deal was agreed with the terms stated by the agreed purchaser “I will go and get the money and be back straight away”. Well, we are still waiting and similar events have happened twice more. Why people have to tell lies I don’t know but that is the way it has gone so we are still the owners of two cars.

Rhonda's Comment: "Oh Dad, I have my bag ready and no motor scooter."

I can’t say plus a motor scooter as the last night in Moissac a group of 4 lads walking past the boat at 3.40 am just picked the bike up and walked off with it and despite the CTV capturing the images, the lack of clarity prevented the police from identifying them. The fact that we had a security combo lock cable through the back wheel and the steering lock activated and it was covered and strapped down they knew how to affect a clean getaway. Oh well we better tell the insurance company which was in Cambrai where we bought the scooter two years ago. At the time we could not find anyone who spoke English and it was so difficult finding any company who would even consider giving us insurance due to the fact we were “newbies” but eventually thought between us we had it all worked out. When we tried to claim they advised that we had struck off the theft cover and only had third party cover…Bugger.
Rhonda's Comment: This is the spot where the motor scooter should have been!!!!

Never mind the weather continued to improve and we had to get to Toulouse for our booked appointment with the dry dock so we set off feeling a bit sad after spending 6 months at Moissac and leaving new and old friends and acquaintances behind.

With much waving and kisses being thrown, away we went up hill as they say when you are going into locks which are empty due to the flow and riding up on the fill until you can drive out at the top. This means, as no eclusiers are available to take a rope for you, Rhonda had to be dropped off somewhere prior to the facing lock and walk onto the lock to press the "ok" button up on the side then as I drove “Somewhere” in, I would throw her a bow rope which was generally a couple of meters or so above the boat and which she would fasten over the bollard. This would secure us until the lock was filled and we could drive out. With the distances between locks the first being as little as 500 metres apart she decided to walk from lock to lock which was great for me but she sure slept well that night. I have to say that Harry is of no use whatsoever and just accepts all that is going on.

We stayed in Castelsarrasin for two nights enjoying the renowned Thursday street market and a quiet spell. With the need to push on we cruised for about 3 hours and then stayed overnight at a very pretty mooring at St-Porquier. The next day we headed on up the canal and as we entered into the port of Montech which was looking full, we were fortunate enough to be waved into a berthing position by Clive and Diane "Havink" whom we had met some weeks earlier at a function at Moissac and he directed us to berth alongside another barge whose owners were living back in London so we were able to access water and power and as the weather was exceptional we stayed for 5 nights.

Rhonda's Comment: Clive and Di have their boat for sale - a lovely Dutch Steel Cruiser.

This town is a very nice place with local shops and bars and we enjoyed spending time with Clive and Di and on our 3rd day there Clive came along with another old mate of ours from S.J.L. Terry and wife Sandra off "Felix" who had just come into port as they were heading to the south west area for the season and had fitted into a small finger berth alongside Clive. We enjoyed an evening up on our sundeck having a few cool drinks and telling each other stories, some true, some not so true depending on the time of the evening, but it was a really nice get together.

Rhonda's Comment: First Drinks on Board for the Season.

Sadly during our stay we had a call from my niece Kaye in New Zealand advising that my beloved sister Thelma’s health has almost completely failed and she was not expected to be with us for many more days. I am so glad that we took time before leaving New Zealand at the start of our adventure to travel to visit her and her husband Mel to celebrate the many great times we had enjoyed so much and to say “good bye” and repeated this with my brother Russ and his wife Margaret. Since leaving New Zealand we have lost my brother-in-law, Mel and my sister-in-law has developed severe dementia and is confined to a rest home. I only mention these somewhat morbid facts to again highlight the need to say, fill your lives with whatever you have dreamed of doing as time is not forever and we can be so quickly robbed of such dreams and opportunities.

After another day we headed off to catch up on some of the lost time so we pushed on from Montech and managed a 7 hour day which is most unusual for us but mooring spots are infrequent on this leg of the journey. At one point when we thought we would just pull into the bank and tie up for the rest of the day, we found that the depth was insufficient and in fact we sucked up a heap of mud causing lack of water flow. The engine heat alarms went off so it was a very slow hour or so until I was able to flush enough mud from the system and to allow us to move on to a suitable tie up point which on this occasion we chose to tie to one of the landing platforms below a lock. As it was late on a Saturday afternoon we were sure that canal traffic had finished for the day which was true so a quiet night was spent. These landing platforms are built alongside the canals as points where one can get off to walk up to the lock to operate the system and this is what Rhonda would do, however, they aren’t always available so in such circumstances it means that I have to slide the boat alongside the bank to let her off and as Rhonda’s athletic prowess is somewhat limited we need to be almost stopped and as close as possible to allow her to allow her to get off, hence the grounding and gut full of mud. Why there aren’t platforms at every lock I do not understand.

Harry enjoyed his new surroundings and walks along the canal path after being stuck on the boat for so long and as Sunday dawned and all was quiet we decided to stay here for the day and to watch the Malaysian Grand Prix which is a new love of Rhonda’s.

A new day dawned and with only 15kms showing on the canal chart we decided we would go right through to Toulouse which turned out to be easier said than done due to two locks giving problems and delaying us plus again getting overheating problems. Some of the locks leading into the city of Toulouse are quite difficult in that they are very tight as they are built on severe turns and can also be very slow fillers so a complete cycle of one lock can take almost 30 minutes. We slid into the port of Toulouse to find it fully occupied so took the chance and tied up to the wall opposite which is alongside a busy road.

Thank goodness for double glazing as it sure minimised the feared noise level and after a short rest spell we wandered over to the nearby Irish Pub where they offer good old styled English food and have a huge array of rugby jerseys and country flags adorning the walls including Jona Lomus 1995 World Rugby Cup famous Guernsey. With the staff all speaking English and the menu printed in both French and English we were able to pick a delicious meal which was not too expensive and was such a change from the usual French formulae fare. We noticed that they offered an All Day Full English Breakfast menu for the weekends which may be of appeal at some time but typically French, when we asked what time they opened for breakfast, we were told 12.noon to 3.00pm. One has to smile for sure.

Rhonda's Comment: The water goes down.

Had a great nights sleep and up in time to get the boat to the gates and bridge leading in off the canal to the VNF yard by 8.30am. We were there on time but the VNF were late so we had to drift about until they duly arrived to shift the bridge etc which cuts right through the tow/ cycle and walk path so people going to work were delayed while we slid through the very narrow entrance. Once inside we were directed to tie up to the quay only to be told once we had done this to untie and to make the right hand turn into the flooded dry dock pen. This managed, we were tied into position and the pump out took place. It took an hour to drain the water and it was fascinating to see the bottom of “Somewhere” for the first time.

Rhonda's Comment: The wretched green plastic bag.

Despite the green slime and fresh water mussels which had grown on the hull we were surprised how well the state and general condition was. The contractor said that due to the lack of any damage and such little wear that the anodes would not even have to be replaced so this speaks well of the Victron Isolating System preventing the uptake of wild electrolysis etc. Then I noticed a woven belt rope wound very tightly around the prop shaft and even worse found a small but almost perfectly fitting plastic bag jammed into the fresh water intake reducing the potential volume by at least 3/4 so this may well have been the reason why our water temp has been rising particularly when mud was added to the equation. Fingers crossed. The contractor started to water blast the hull almost immediately and worked diligently through to 4.30 pm so we then sat on the rest rails drying in the sun. Sadly when I looked into the bow thruster I noticed it had only two blades so guess this is a job for experts over the next few days.

Sadly at around 2.00pm, the news arrived that my sister in New Zealand had passed away and while we are really saddened by the news as reported earlier, it was not unexpected and can only add that at last she is now at peace. Her children and grandchildren can now grieve and support each other as only a death seems to bring us to do.

Day two and the work progressed quickly as the hull had dried quickly in the nice spring sun so sanding of the odd area where we had scraped heavily was carried out and so began the under sealing ready for the blacking to be sprayed on. Two coats later "Somewhere" looked great so we decided to have the green panels re-done as they had got a few scrapes over the years so this area was sanded, primed, masked up and the green paint was sprayed on and she sure looks like new again. Serge, the contractor is a great tradesman who deserves all the great references we had received about him prior to getting the work done. He is a master at his trade and sure knows the marine industry so well.

As Saturday was a day to get off the boat, Rhonda and I and Harry travelled into the city centre by bus to see the sights so to speak. As I have reported in the past when we stayed here in the port, the city is known for its pink colour due to the bricks which are used so much in its general construction. Sunday was time to get the boat cleaned up ready for the dry dock to be filled with water, however, as we still awaited the arrival of the bow thruster propeller replacement propeller so fingers crossed it will be here Monday. Monday arrived and of course no propeller had arrived but as it was “on the VNF schedule,” we had to go out of the dry dock but could rest up in the pond area just outside of the doors. This despite no-one was coming in and the big barge sharing the drydock with us was having extra steel plates welded to her hull so they had to stop work, clear out all their tools and equipment so the water could be let in to let us out and they had to wait while it was drained again. Half a day lost, all for nothing but it was “on the schedule.” Crazy to say the least.

We sat outside in the pond awaiting the arrival of the bow thruster prop. Fortunately I was able to use the time to start repainting the wooden sun deck so after sanding, priming and undercoating we started this awful job but it should look great when finished. Rhonda spent her time doing a full spring clean inside which was much needed due in part to the amounts of dust which plagued the area. On Tuesday and with no sign of the bow thruster propeller Serge rang Vetus in Holland only to be told that the money transfer he had made to them in full payment including "Rush Courier" had not cleared the bank so the prop would not be sent until that had happened. Amazing as I could have paid for it on my credit card as no transfer bank transactions seem to be activated in real time like we are used to in New Zealand so it is a case of sit and wait.

Later in the day we received a call from Kaz and Iain at Moissac to say a young fellow had turned up there with my motor scooter but sadly it had been damaged quite badly and had been thrown into the river so who knows what the real damage is or whether it can be repaired. They had stripped off the front cowl to hot wire it and removed the rear mudguard which carried the number plate and tail lights etc but they had not noticed the little “I love New Zealand” sticker I had put under the seat so it was easy to get confirmed identification. Apparently the Gendarmes called down to the marina to view it and now want to interview me when I return. Goodness only knows why. They sure couldn’t find it themselves. Oh well another adventure awaits our return to Moissac next week all being well.

We were to have friends from New Zealand arrive to spend some time with us on the boat but Jenny phoned today to say they were stuck in Switzerland as no rail seats are available until after Easter weekend so they won’t now get here until Tuesday at least. This might be a blessing as I will push on with the painting and we will effect the cleaning which is so necessary after a term in dry dock with all the grinding, welding and spraying going on every day. While the weather has been fine, each day of late has been quite windy so this has held the temperatures down and it has been strong enough to stir up dust from this unsealed work area so everything is coated inside and out.

Well the exit day arrived at last and with Serge fitting the new bow thruster propeller and all seeming to be fine including getting the Sum Log working for the first time ever as our mate Alex off “Riccall” had crawled under the boat while it was in dry dock and found that the little impeller had never been able to turn so with deft hands, he trimmed some of the plastic so it can freely turn so we were delighted to see it keeping a reading of our speed. He is a clever little fellow is that Alex. At 3.00pm as per the VNF schedule we were allowed out of the pound onto the main canal so pottered off through Toulouse which was in a quiet mood after unexpectantly being well beaten in the semi final of the Heineken Cup, Europe Rugby championship by Leinster so they now have to sit by and watch the finals from the stand or on TV.

With Jenny and her cousin Des still floundering about the south of France trying to catch us up we headed to Grisolles a small town right on the rail and said we would meet them there around 1.00pm and this was confirmed by them on text. We stood on the platform and watched several trains rip by then one stopped but no sign of our guests so after an exchange of texts we learned that they had got on a non-stop train from Toulouse to Agen, missing Grisolles and going on even past Moissac so Rhonda, Harry and I retired in amazement to the local truck lunch stop and had a wonderful meal of Canard with salad and Frites of course plus a carafe of Rose to wash it down. Well if you are a duck meal lover you could not have got a better meal as it was delightful and the steaks of duck were cooked to perfection. With full bellies we waddled back to “Somewhere” for an afternoons rest which was great and to await the planned re arrival time of 8.40 pm for our guests after they had returned to Toulouse and restarted their journey on a train which did stop at Grisolles. What a laugh to say the least.

Rhonda's Comments: Jenny. All smiles - what should have been a 30min trip turned out to be a 6 hour trip!!!!

Now I do have to tell you that Rhonda was awake at 6.00am to watch "The Royal Wedding" can you believe that (for those who know Rhonda, they would not be at all surprised by that and in fact would have expected that she would have waited up all night for it to come on). I must admit even I enjoyed it. From Grisolles we headed to Montech only to be flagged down by Alex and Louise off “Riccall” who had cycled down from about 4 kms up the Canal Montauban. As they insisted on us having a drink to say ‘Hello’ to Jenny and Des and to toast the newly married royal couple, it was around 7.00pm before we said good night to them as they cycled with a slight wobble off into the evening sunset and we set off to the closest restaurant as Des and Jenny said they would shout us a meal. Boy what a feed we had and they had Canard for the first time with Rhonda and I had the best steak I have had in France. What a great respite I have to say so a real fun evening was had.

As we had been told by Alex and Louise what a great trip it was up to Montauban with only 9 locks to face we travelled this new to us canal and arrived at the end of the canal to find them setting up for a day of athletic prowess with multi sports etc all about to happen the next day. With Des and Jenny needing to get a train booking to Nice they walked to the station, getting lost again, while Rhonda and I gave the boat a clean. We sat up on the sundeck upon their return enjoying the views and a quiet drink or two as the vans and tents for the BIG athletics day were set up right beside our boat.

Rhonda's Comment: Passing "Riccall" - Louise, Ken loves those legs.

Unfortunately our guests had scheduled to leave us at 8.30 am the following morning so off they went and Rhonda and I spent the day watching all the activities of the locals. Like the sound volume from the PA system which steadily got turned up in volume to where it was a blur in the end, however, it was all over including the Line Dancing displays by 3.00pm so we couldn’t complain really.

Rhonda's Comments: Just loved the french line dancers, dancing to "Country Road" by John Denver. I was the only one who knew the words!!!

Today we set off amid rumours of a VNF strike to get back to Montech but found no such problems so are almost back to old home territory again and have asked if we can go out onto the River Tarn to stay in Moissac when we get back. With a planned overnight stop in Castelsarrasin flagged as we had made such good times we headed to Moissac a day earlier than planned. As we wanted to go down onto the river off the canal we had to book the lock changes with the VNF so 2.30 pm was set down for us.

It was like arriving back home and we were delighted to get through the locks and out onto the river only to find our old mates Alex and Louise with Riccall already ensconced there so gave us a hand to tie up and get secure so this really is the close of another adventure for this blog so will close off for now while and await the arrival of Daphne and Claude from Waiheke Island in Auckland so some fun times ahead are assured.

As we will have completed 3 years living on “Somewhere”, come October, exploring this great country and seeing so many wonderful sights, after much agonising I have decided to put the boat on the market for sale so we will see what the advert brings.

Meanwhile we wish you all the very best wherever you are.

Kindest regards
Ken, Rhonda and Harry